A Guide For The Care and Training of The Retired Racing Greyhound

New Jersey Greyhound Adoption Program, Inc.
335 County Road 513
Califon, N J 07830-41462
(908) 832-9678
http://www.adopt-a-greyhound.org/njgap.html

Chapter 1 - In the Beginning...

1.1 Items you will need !!!
1.2 Post Operative Care.
1.3 Introducing Your Greyhound to your Cats and Dogs.
1.4 Feeding you Greyhound
1.5 Running Loose and the Great Outdoors.


                1.51 Running Loose.

                1.52 The Great Outdoors.

Chapter 2 - On the Way...

2.1 Stairs.
2.2 Housebreaking.


                2.21 Crate Training !!!!

                2.22 Simple Positive Approach

                2.23 Sample Schedule.

                2.24 Signs that your Greyhound may have to go out.

                2.25 Troubleshooting Checklist.

2.3 Greyhounds and Children.
2.4 Training.
2.5 Veterinary Care.

Chapter 3 - The Home Stretch...

3.1 Toxins.
3.2 Grooming.
3.3 The Greyhound Reach.
3.4 Allergies.
3.5 Deadly Heat.
3.6 Lure Coursing.
3.7 Estate Planning.

Index

When you get your new greyhound there are some items that you will need. They should be purchased either before you get your new family member or right after you get your pet. These items can be purchased at your local pet store or catalogue sales, with the special items available through NJ GAP. The items you will need are as follows:

• Special nylon safety collar and 6 foot nylon leash - This can be purchased from NJ GAP at the time of adoption. A greyhound can back out of a standard buckle collar (You could be left holding a leash/collar with a greyhound running 45 mph away from you.) Also, please never use a metal choke collar on your greyhound as you could damage their throat.
• Name Tag - Your name/address/phone are to be used on a tag, in conjunction with the NJ GAP tag.
• Large crate - NJ Gap will recommend the size and style to best suit your particular dog prior to adoption. At least 40" long, 27" wide and 30" high (Vari-Kennel 500).
• Stainless steel or ceramic bowls - One bowl for food and the other one for water (3 quart bowls work well).
• Pro-Plan DRY food - The adult formula "Chicken and Rice" in the black bag made by Purina.
• Dog bed or thick quilt - Something soft for your greyhound to lie on. If you have allergies to dogs we recommend a thick quilt or blanket because it is easier to put in a washing machine and be fully cleaned.
• Dog Coat - Since greyhounds have less than 5% body fat they need a coat for winter. NJ GAP has a large selection of custom made coats available.
• Toys - Fleece chewmen (shaped like a gingermen), large squeaky toys and booda bones are popular with greyhounds. You want to take your greyhound shopping to pick out a favorite. Try to avoid vinyl/rubber toys.
• Dog biscuits - IAMS or other equivalent high quality large biscuits.
• Rawhides - Make sure they are American beefhide, 9"-10" bone or larger, and processed without lime, bleach or arsenic which can make your dog sick. Please never leave your dog unattended with a rawhide as they could choke on a piece.
• Cow Hooves - These are safer than rawhide and satisfy the chewing urge.
• Pooper Scooper or Plastic Bags - To pick up after your pet on your walks.
• Nature's Miracle - A cleaning solution to effectively rid those "accident" spots of odors.
• Dog toothbrush and dog toothpaste - This is for your greyhound's weekly grooming.
• Hound grooming glove or rubber curry comb - This will pull out your dog's dead hair and reduce shedding.
• Dog nail clippers - For the once a week tipping of the nails.
• Ear cleaner - Oti-Clens or other veterinarian recommended solution.
• Flea & Tick Products - NJ GAP recommends ADAMS flea & tick shampoo, ADAMS flea & tick mist (with pyrethrins), ZODIAC Triple Action Flea & Tick shampoo, ZODIAC Water Based Flea & Tick spray, PREVENTIC collars can be worn by greyhounds (collar for ticks only & can be purchased through mail order catalogs or your veterinarian).

NO FLEA COLLARS. IF YOU ARE IN DOUBT ABOUT THE SAFETY AND/OR EFFECTIVENESS OF ANY FLEA PRODUCT PLEASE CALL NJ GAP  at (908) 832-9678.

NOTE: Never purchase any over the counter worming medications - please consult your veterinarian if you think your greyhound may have worms.

The above items can be ordered from the following catalogs:

J-B Pet Supplies at 1-800-526-0388

Drs. Foster & Smith at 1-800-826-7026.

Cherrybrook at 908-689-7979.

 

1.2 Post Operative Care

NJ GAP wants you to know exactly what to expect if your dog has been spayed/neutered just prior to adoption:

Expect your greyhound to be groggy for the first few days after surgery. Each day the dog will get better.

Expect that your greyhound will need to go to the bathroom more frequently for a few days.

Expect that your greyhound may vomit the first night from the anesthesia. Nothing is wrong.

Expect that anesthesia may cause coughing.

Expect your greyhound to be tender and sore for a few days.

DO'S:

Do give your dog only a small amount of water, with a few ice cubes, the first night. Don't allow uncontrolled water drinking.

Do check the incision every day for the first week. If it is red and/or inflamed call NJ GAP or your veterinarian.

Do go to the veterinarian for suture removal, if the sutures are not the dissolvable type.

Do keep your dog in a crate more the first week. Rest and relaxation are the key to a speedy recovery.

Do call NJ GAP or your veterinarian with any questions.

DON'TS:

Don't let your dog jump!! If you must go up/down from a high place, pick the dog up by placing one arm behind the rear legs at the knees and the other arm on the dog's chest. Gently lift and place the dog.

Don't feed your greyhound the first night. If you must, out of guilt, offer it food, and limit it to 1/4 cup. Then get the cleaning solution (Natures Miracle), a bucket and paper towels to clean up the vomit that will result!!!

Don't let your greyhound run or jump for 14 days following the surgery. This applies to both males and females.

Don't give your dog a bath for 14 days following surgery. Your dog has been given a thorough flea and tick bath prior to surgery.

Don't let your dog lick or chew on the stitches. If this happens, use a muzzle and tape the bottom half. You can also put men's underwear on the dog, with the dogs tail coming out the slit. Please keep the shorts on the dog while in the house. Remember to remove them when you go outside or they may get wet.

1.3 Introducing your greyhound to your Cats and Dogs

Much care has been taken in testing your greyhound's compatibility with small animals. We ask that you follow the accompanying directions when introducing your new dog to your current pets:

• Muzzle - Please use the muzzle we have provided if you have small dogs and/or cats. (The muzzle is also helpful if your dog chews its stitches after surgery).
• Dogs - Introduce your greyhound to your other dog(s) on neutral territory. With leashes on, have them meet on the sidewalk or down the block from your home. Let them greet each other and then take them for a walk together. When you arrive back home walk them around your property (leashes still on) and then bring them into the house.
• Cats - Introduce your greyhound to your cat indoors with the greyhound muzzled and leashed. Hold the leash in your hand. Leave the cat on the floor.

Look for the following signs:

Teeth clicking or snapping.

Ears alert - although by itself this merely could indicate curiosity, as this  is probably one of the first times your greyhound has seen a cat up close.

Fixed gaze or stare - which cannot be broken even when you run your hand in front of the greyhound's eyes.

Trembling and/or lurching.

Your greyhound will be curious about your cat but interest combined with the above signs can indicate that your greyhound is one of the few thatcannot live safely with small animals and should be exchanged for a different dog.

• Separation - For the first several weeks, keep the dogs and/or cats separated when you are not at home or cannot supervise their interaction. Watch them carefully when they are interacting.
• No Chase - Never let your greyhound chase any of your small animals, even in play. Play can turn to hunt in a flash and no cat or small dog is fast enough to get out of the way of a determined greyhound.
• Feeding - Feed your cats/dogs in separate areas. You can feed your greyhound in his/her crate. Always reinforce the pecking order in your house at feeding. The top animal should always be fed, or given treats, first. Then the second...

If you have any questions or are not sure if you are reading the warning signs correctly, please call NJ GAP immediately, we will be happy to discuss this with you.

1.4 Feeding Your Greyhound

NJ GAP strongly recommends that you restrict your dog's exercise before and after eating. The following are the guides for feeding:

• Strenuous exercise - There should be no strenuous exercise, 2 hours before and 2 hours after a meal. Strenuous exercise can induce bloat.
• Type of Food - Use Pro-Plan dry dog food (Adult formula in the black and maroon bag) or a kibble of equivalent quality.
• Feeding Balance - Feed 2 meals per day of even amounts (for example 2-3 cups a.m. and 2-3 cups p.m.)
• Weight feeding guide - The average female of 60 lb. should eat approximately 4-5 cups per day. The average male of 70 lb. should be fed approximately 5-6 cups per day.
• Gain weight - If your dog needs to gain weight, increase the amount of food by a quarter of a cup per feeding and observe for 2 to 3 weeks. The desired weight gain should take place.
• Lose weight - If your dog needs to lose weight, decrease the amount of food by a quarter of a cup per feeding and observe for 2 to 3 weeks until the dog reaches "fit" weight. Remember "Don't change the type of food just the amount."
• Table scraps - Never feed table scraps or canned dog food.
• Treats - Limit the number of doggie treats per day. If you use the large biscuits, break in half, dogs like to get treats. They don't care how big or small the treat.
• Prozyme - Prozyme is a great additive. It helps the coat grow in quickly and aids in digestion.
• Fresh water - Fresh water should be available at feeding times. Do not let your dog drink excessively after eating. Drinking too much water to quickly can cause bloat. Remember " What goes in must come out".
• Gags - If your greyhound gags on the dry food add some warm water. Also, gently massage its throat and soothe it. It is best to slowly wean your dog off the wet food as a good crunch does wonders for the teeth.
• Inhales - If your dog really inhales its food, use a Jell-O mold or a bundt pan for its dish. The center hole forces the dog to eat more slowly.
• Neck strain - To avoid strain on the dog's neck you can elevate their food dish.

You should always be able to see the tip of the backbone and a bit of rib on a greyhound. Also, there should be an area that indents between the ribs and tail. A greyhound should never look like a sausage!

Allowing your greyhound to gain too much weight can create health problems. Their bone structure cannot support extra pounds. The more excess baggage a dog has to carry around, the less it wants to move and the chunkier it becomes.

1.5 Running Loose and the Great Outdoors

1.51 Running Loose -

Greyhounds, because they are sighthounds, can see far away up to a half mile or more. The sight of a small animal (rabbit, squirrel, chipmunk, etc.) paper bag or leaves blowing in the wind, can send your greyhound into a full run at 45 miles per hour. In a few minutes they can be a few miles away and not realize they are even gone.

Also unexpected noises, such as firecrackers, motorcycles, loud cars or trucks can also startle and panic the unleashed greyhound. It may take off and become lost and/or get killed by a car.

The rule is "GREYHOUNDS SHOULD ALWAYS BE ON A LEASH OR IN A COMPLETELY FENCED AREA WHEN OUTDOORS"

If you are fencing your yard for your greyhound, the fence should be a minimum of 4 feet (the ideal fence is 6 feet high). Greyhounds are not jumpers, but the exception, may require a taller fence.

1.52 Great Outdoors -

• NEVER leave your greyhound (or any dog) unattended in a fenced yard unless you are home to keep an eye on them. Many are stolen, mistreated and/or sold to research labs.
• Greyhounds are HOUSE dogs and should never be left out in hot or cold temperatures. Their short coat, lack of body fat and thin skin can cause them to overheat in summer and become chilled in winter. We advise that you make or buy a heavy lined coat to use when the temperature drops below 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
• NEVER put a greyhound on an overhead run or tie them out to a stake or a tree as they can take off running at 45 mph from a dead stop. A broken neck, leg or possibly death can result.

When you walk your greyhound use the nylon safety collar and 6 foot leash you have purchased from us.

Chapter 2

Teaching your greyhound how to walk up and down stairs is really pretty easy. Remember that this is new to your dog and you have to be patient and persistent. This is not the time to baby your dog. Encourage but do not coddle. Dogs can read our facial expressions so remain calm and smile them through this.

• Let your dog lean against your leg. Start at the bottom stair and grip the dog's collar. You may need to put the dog's front legs on the step.
• Start your walk up the steps still holding the collar. You can encourage your greyhound by saying "come on let's go up". If the dog does not respond get behind and put the rear legs on a step also. Slowly alternate the front and rear legs up the stairs.
• You are now at the top. Praise your dog in a high pitch voice and let him/her relax for a few minutes.
• Grip the collar again and start down the same way.
• Praise again when you reach the bottom.
• Go through this up and down sequence at least one more time.
• If your stairs are not carpeted make sure your greyhound's nails are as short as possible so they don't slip on the steps.
• If your stairs are the open-backed type or very steep, please allow your greyhound a little extra time to learn these.

If you find that the dog is not voluntarily following you up and down, repeat this exercise each day for the next few days.

Within a short period of time your greyhound will fly up and down the stairs.

There is no reason to consider moving your bedroom furniture to the first floor.

Housebreaking is extremely important and can be very easy. The following is NJ GAP's attempt to explain housebreaking a few different ways, utilizing the same basic principles, to obtain the desired results.

2.21 Crate Training

Crate training is the most effective way to housebreak your greyhound.  Greyhound's are raised in crates and are very comfortable with them. The basic principle is that greyhounds are very clean animals and will not eliminate where they sleep. Therefore, if a greyhound is in the crate it will not eliminate in either the crate or the house. The following are the basics of crate training:

• Crate Size - NJ GAP will recommend the appropriate size for your greyhound prior to the time of adoption. At least 40" long, 27" wide and 30" high (Vari-Kennel 500).
• Location - Place your crate in a room that is familiar to the dog. A remote location such as the basement or a room that is far away from family activity can make your dog feel as if it has been abandoned.
• Rule - If you can't watch your dog crate it. Do be alert and don't let your dog out of your sight until you are confident he/she is housebroken.
• Punishment - Don't punish for accidents. Above all don't use the crate for punishment. A simple NO in a low pitched voice is all that is needed.
• Schedule - Keep to a regular feeding and walking schedule (even on the weekends).

The following two sections will walk you through the fundamentals of housebreaking using a crate.

2.22 A Simple Positive Approach

• Feed at set times and walk your greyhound at set times. Do not vary your schedule, even on the weekends. At a minimum, your greyhound should be walked first thing in the morning, first thing when you arrive home, last thing before you go to bed and 15-30 minutes after each meal.
• Feed the same food all the time. Do not vary the diet, do not feed table scraps or an overabundance of between meal snacks (limit it to 2 small treats a day).
• Watch your pet's stool. If it is too loose, cut back on the amount of food by 1/4 cup per feeding until it becomes firm.
• Take your dog out on a regular schedule. Walk in a small area where you want the dog to go to the bathroom. Dogs like to relieve themselves in familiar surroundings. Limit bathroom walks to 10 -15 minutes so the dog can understand what you expect of him/her. Save the long walks for recreation time. After the dog eliminates PRAISE!!!
• If your dog does not relieve himself outside, confine it to its crate for another 30 minutes and then take him/her back out. If the dog does not relieve himself then confine again for another 30 minutes. Remember to limit your bathroom walks to 10 - 15 minutes.
• Once your pet does urinate and defecate outside then you can give them some freedom in the house , keep an eye on them. Until you are confident that your pet is completely housebroken do not let your pet out of your sight. If you cannot watch your dog, crate it.
• If you catch your pet in the act of an accident, loudly say "no!" or "stop!", clip on their leash and take them immediately outside to their toilet area. When your dog finishes: PRAISE!
• Clean the accident area with an effective cleanser to remove the scent of urine or stool from the carpet or floor. We recommend Nature's Miracle cleaning solution. Do not let your dog watch you clean it up. It is available in most pet stores and mail order catalogs.
• If you are having trouble, make sure that your dog is not sick. Worms or urinary tract infections are easily cured but can interfere with housebreaking!

2.23 A Sample Schedule

• On rising - Walk - relieve - PRAISE; (if after your 10 -15 minute bathroom walk your dog does not relieve himself, bring in, confine to the crate, feed and then walk again within 10-15 minutes of eating and then skip to step #3).
• Feed & water, wait 10-30 minutes-walk again. If during this waiting period you can't watch the dog in the house perhaps you are getting ready for work - CRATE IT.
• Your pet's second walk of the morning should be timed so that it is right before you leave for work.
• Put your dog in his/her crate in a familiar room. Praise. Leave soft music on for the dog and you can leave a cow hoof for the dog to chew. Please do not leave your dog alone with a rawhide bone as it could choke on a piece.
• Upon returning from work or after any time that you are gone, take your dog out of his/her crate, do not make a big fuss over the dog, & take them for its bathroom walk - Praise!!! If you make too much of a fuss when you release your pet from its crate it may get the idea that being out of the crate is better than being in it. This could lead to separation anxiety which may be accompanied by whining or barking.
• Evening meal, give water & walk. Praise!!!
• Once your dog relieves itself you can take it for a recreational walk.
• Remember: Greyhounds love to go for walks!!
• Before you go to bed, take your dog on another bathroom walk. Praise!!! Initially you will want to withhold water for 3 hours before bed and during the night.
• Confine your dog in its crate in the bedroom with you. Once you are certain your dog is housebroken you can let your greyhound sleep on a dog bed in your bedroom with the door closed or use a baby gate.

2.24 Signs That Your Greyhound May Have To Go Out

Greyhounds usually tell you when they have to go out. Sometimes we are not able to recognize the signs. Some of the signs are as follows:

• Pacing
• Walking in circles
• Walking to the door and looking back at you
• Standing by the door
• Listlessness
• Barking
• Holding up a sign that says "OUT"

When your dog indicates a need to go outside, Respond Immediately, don't wait for the next television commercial.

2.25 Trouble Shooting Checklist

Having trouble with accidents in the house? Review this checklist carefully and see if there is something you're not doing. Call us if you need more information or advice.

__ 1. Are you keeping your pet confined when not at home and within your sight when you are at home? __ 2. Are you limiting the "bathroom" walks to 10 -15 minutes? __ 3. Are you walking after meals and at the appropriate times? __ 4. Did you keep a chart/diary for at least 5 days? __ 5. Are you feeding your dog at the same time every day, measuring his/her food with a measuring cup to assure accuracy, not overfeeding, keeping snacks to a minimum, and not giving table scraps? __ 6. Is everyone in the family cooperating with the housebreaking effort? __ 7. Are you adding to your pet's confusion by punishing him/her? __ 8. Are you certain your dog isn't sick and needs to be examined by a veterinarian? (Worms or urinary tract infections are easily cured but can interfere with housebreaking) __ 9. Are you removing the scent of your pet's urine and/or stool from the affected area? We recommend Nature's Miracle cleaning solution. __ 10. If you have a fenced yard, are you going outside with your pet so that you know whether or not it has relieved itself?  __ 11. Are you praising your dog when it eliminates outside? __ 12. Are you giving your pet too much freedom in the house? Still having problems??? Please call NJ GAP at (908) 832-9678.

2.3 Your Greyhound And Children

Most greyhounds have never been around children and therefore have no reason to dislike them. The real question is: "Does your child/children know how to behave with animals."

Greyhounds by virtue of being 'track' dogs, generally, have not been around children.  Therefore they have no reason to dislike children and in fact greyhounds really seem to enjoy being around children. However, there are certain guidelines that we ask that you follow so that the adjustment period for you and your greyhound & children goes as smoothly as possible. This adjustment period can last anywhere from 3 to 6 months depending on the individual greyhound and the dedication and patience of the adoptive family.

The following are some simple rules to ensure a happy relationship:

• LET SLEEPING DOGS LIE - Do not jump on or even pet a sleeping greyhound. Some greyhounds sleep with their eyes open. When a sleeping dog is startled it may growl or come up with teeth before it is fully awake and realizes that the culprit is its best friend. If you must wake your sleeping greyhound, call its name and have it walk to you.
• Privacy and quiet - All dogs are entitled to privacy and quiet when they eat and sleep. Children must be instructed to not bother the dog during its "quiet" times. This has to be consistently enforced.
• Food - Do not let your child take away the dog's food or interfere with its mealtime in any way. It is best to feed your greyhound in its crate to avoid a problem.
• Hanging On - Do not hang on the dog's neck or climb on its back. Greyhounds can be injured or feel threatened.
• Door Bolting - Make sure you have a hold of your greyhound by the collar before any door is opened to let anyone in/out of your house.
• Open Doors and Gates - Be extremely cautious about leaving doors and gates open (this goes for car doors also). Greyhounds move so quickly they will be out the door and down the street in a blink of the eye. Teach your children and their friends about the importance of keeping doors and gates closed at all times.
• Kindness - A child old enough to have a dog is old enough to treat it with kindness.
• Crate - Do not let your children crawl into the greyhound's crate. Privacy is important. Initially, we recommend that you utilize the crate when your children are actively playing. It is also a good idea to use the crate when children have friends over to play. This way your new greyhound has a chance to experience and get used to children while in the safety and security of his/her crate.

The use of a crate is mandatory for a minimum of 6 months when you have children. You will find that the crate is an invaluable tool to keep the dog(s) and children separated when you  cannot be there to supervise their interaction. Just as you would not leave a toddler  or infant alone unsupervised, children of any age and dogs should never be left alone unsupervised.

• Dogs should not be permitted on the furniture or to sleep with anyone on their bed.
• Dogs that live with children must be taken to obedience school by an adult, to team basic obedience and to aid in the establishment of who is in charge. Most basic obedience classes are held in the evening, one class a week for 6 to 8 weeks. You can call your local high school for adult school education information. They usually hold dog obedience classes. Many veterinarians or boarding kennels may also be able to recommend an obedience class.
• Parents who feel their children are too young to be taught how to treat an animal properly should wait until the children are older before they bring a pet into their home.
• DO NOT LET YOUR CHILDREN CRAWL UP TO, RUN UP TO, JUMP ON, KISS,  HUG A DOG THAT IS LAYING DOWN AND/OR SLEEPING.
• Greyhounds do not understand the meaning of a child or children rushing, crawling, running up to it or trying to kiss or hug it, when it is laying down (even if it is awake!). A dog may choose to get up and walk away, do nothing, growl or it may even snap or bite. Greyhounds sometimes sleep with their eyes open so it is very difficult to tell if one is asleep or awake.

The above suggestions apply to all dog/people relationships regardless of age.

The most effective way to train your greyhound is to join a basic obedience group class. These are inexpensive and fun. Use your safety collar/humane choke or a nylon choker. Please do not use a metal choker on a greyhound as this could damage their throat and thin skin.

The following are some training insights on greyhounds:

• Sitting - Greyhounds do not like to sit, their long backs and well-developed muscles make this an uncomfortable position for them. Coming close is good!! Doing it is great!!!
• Recall - Greyhounds can be taught to come when called. But don't ever be fooled into thinking they will come every time you call them (this applies to all breeds). No dog can be trusted to respond 100% of the time.
• Praise - Greyhounds respond very well to praise. This praise should always be verbal, accompanied with physical patting and/or a treat. The verbal praise should be done in a high pitch voice. Also, dogs do read facial expressions, so smile when your dog does well and frown when it could have been done better. Use a small piece of a treat as a reward for desired behavior.
• Reprimands - They should always be done in a low pitched voice. The command should be NO!!! This will be sufficient to train any greyhound. Remember hitting teaches a dog aggression.

Helpful Hint ++Trash - All trash should be kept under the counter with the cabinet door closed or in a very tightly covered container. Dogs are very clever at opening things when they want what is inside of it.

There have been retired racers that have earned obedience titles. Just remember that training must be done with a light, encouraging hand and leash rules always apply, even with a highly trained greyhound.

2.5 Veterinary Care

NJ GAP has had your greyhound surgically altered, provided its initial one year inoculations for rabies and distemper. It may have been tested for heartworms. You have been given the veterinarian records for your greyhound and have been told if a heartworm test or other procedures are needed. The following veterinary care should be done within two weeks:

• Well Visit - NJ GAP recommends that you take your greyhound to your veterinarian for a well visit. The doctor can establish a profile of your dog when it is well. Also bring the medical records you received from NJ GAP.
• Stool sample - A stool sample should be taken to your veterinarian for parasite testing.
• Heartworm - Your dog must be tested for heartworm. If your dog has tested negative for heartworms you should pick up the preventative at your veterinarian's office. The monthly preventative is fine for greyhounds. If your greyhound has problems taking the pill try putting it in either cream cheese or peanut butter. You should keep your greyhound on heartworm medication year round.
• Worms - There are four types of worms that can be found in dogs. The following are the recommended medications:
• Cextex or Droncit - The best for tapeworms. Tapeworms look like rice in a dogs stool. The tablets are more effective than shots.
  
  Panacur - The best medication for hookworm, roundworm, and  whipworm. This comes in a powdered form.
• After your dog has been medicated for worms, you must wait at least three weeks to take a stool sample to your veterinarian. Do not panic if your dog still has worms. It sometimes takes a second dose to completely rid your greyhound of worms.

* Dental Care - Ask the veterinarian to show you how to brush and hand scale your dogs teeth.

At your annual veterinarian visit, in addition to a routine checkup, your greyhound should receive:

• Rabies Vaccine - Depending on the state and/or town, a rabies hot will need to be given every two or three years.
• Distemper - A combination shot for distemper and other viral diseases.
• Heartworm Test- If this test was not done at the well visit or your greyhound was taken off the preventative it is imperative it be done at the annual visit.

You and your veterinarian may notice that your greyhound has one or more of the following:

• Scars - This is common with greyhounds as they have thin skin and may have banged into another greyhound on the track, or scratched themselves on a fence, etc. In time, your greyhound's hair will grow and cover most scars.
• Bald Spots - This is not a skin problem. Due to the greyhound's diet on the track and being kept in a crate the hair is rubbed away. With the feeding of Purina Pro Plan this hair should start to grow back in 8-12 weeks. Prozyme will speed up hair growth.
• Tartar- The soft diet the greyhounds receive at the track tend to cause tartar build up on their teeth. With the feeding of dry food only and cow hooves to chew on you should see an improvement within a few weeks. You should also brush your greyhound's teeth with a dog toothbrush and toothpaste at least once a week. If this does not clear up, it is recommended that you have your dogs teeth cleaned by the veterinarian.
• Pieces of ear are missing - It is not uncommon for greyhounds to be in very close quarters. This closeness sometimes causes them to squabble and an ear can get bitten. This does not mean that your greyhound is aggressive.
• Bursars or swollen elbows - Greyhounds have very little body fat and almost no padding on their joints. If they are forced to lie on hard surfaces for prolonged periods of time fluid may accumulate, your veterinarian can drain this fluid easily. A soft quilt or dog bed will keep this from recurring.
• Shedding - It is common for a greyhound to shed. This will occur twice a year. Weekly grooming with the hounds glove or rubber curry comb and Prozyme will minimize the amount of shedding.

The following are areas of caution for greyhounds:

• Bloat - All large chest cavity dogs are susceptible to bloat. Simply, bloat is a rapid build up of gas in the stomach/chest area. The stomach/chest area twists and significantly reduces the air intake. If this occurs your greyhound will lie down and gasp for air. He may also pace continuously. If this should occur you have approximately 30 minutes to get him/her veterinary care. Bloat can be avoided by not allowing strenuous exercise before and after eating, eating two moderate meals a day(not one huge), and not allowing your greyhound to gulp water excessively.
• Anesthesia Sensitivity - If your greyhound needs surgery in the future please note that greyhounds are very sensitive to anesthesia. A copy of RESEARCH IN GREYHOUND ANESTHESIA by Elaine P. Robinson is in your adoption package to give to your veterinarian.
• Ticks - Has your greyhound ever experienced any of the following?:
• High fever
• Depression or lethargy
• Anorexia
• Anemia
• Diarrhea or constipation
• Loss of appetite or loss of body weight
• Vomiting
• Nose bleeds, skin hemorrhage or any other unusual bleeding
• Swollen legs or lymph nodes
• Nervous system disorders, such as stiff gait, head tilt, seizures or twitching
• Pale gums and/or inner eye membranes
• Arthritis
• There are four tick born diseases that can be the cause of these symptoms. They are Lyme disease, ehrlichiosis, babesiosis or Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. The only way to confirm if your greyhound may have a tick borne disease is through a blood test. We recommend that your veterinarian draw at least 3 cc of blood in a syringe, place in a separate tube, spin it down and keep it refrigerated until mailing. Then mail it to for a full tick panel testing:
• Dr. Cynthia J. Holland
  ProtaTek Reference Labratory
  574 East Alamo Street, Suite 90
  Chandler, AZ 85225
  545-8499
• Tick borne diseases are treatable. Your veterinarian will prescribe a treatment plan. If you have any questions please contact NJ GAP at (908) 832-9678

Diarrhea can happen with any dog. Some of the common causes of diarrhea are table scraps, cat food, stress, grass and garbage picking. All of these are controllable and care should be taken to avoid in the future. The following is a simple schedule NJ GAP recommends to combat loose stool / normal diarrhea:

• Withhold food for 12 hours and limit the water intake.
• Give your dog either Immodium or regular strength Pepto Bismo at the child dosage once.
• Cook white rice.
• After everything has cooled make a mixture of 1 cup of rice to 1/2 ration of your dog's regular food for each feeding (twice a day). The mixture should be served at room temperature. The amount of food can be increased if the diarrhea stops.
• Once the dog has had three consecutive days of firm stool you can begin to introduce more of their regular food into the mixture. The introduction should be gradual (Typically no increases over 1/2 cup regular food).

The following is a simple schedule NJ GAP recommends to combat blowout diarrhea

• Take your dog to a veterinarian for a shot of anti-diarrheal medication.
• Withhold food for 24 hours and limit the water intake.

The following is a NJ GAP recommended process for reintroducing food after blowout diarrhea:

• Boil boneless chicken or ground hamburger and drain off the fat (shred the chicken).
• Cook white rice.

The rule of thumb is: The dog must have 3 consecutive days of firm stools in order to progress to the next level

• Level 1 - Mix 2 cups cooked white rice and 1 cup cooked hamburger or chicken and add 1/4 cup of regular dog food. 3 days of firm stools, go to Level 2.
• Level 2 - Mix 2 cups cooked white rice and 3/4 cup of cooked hamburger or chicken and 1/2 cup of regular dog food, 3 days of firm stools, go to Level 3.
• Level 3 - Mix 1 3/4 cups cooked white rice and 112 cup of cooked hamburger or chicken and 314 cup of regular dog food. 3 days of firm stools, go to Level 4.
• Level 4 - Mix 1 1/2 cups of cooked while rice and 1/4 cup of cooked hamburger or chicken and I cup of regular dog food. 3 days of firm stools, go to Level 5.
• Level 5 - Mix 1 1/4 cups of cooked while rice and 1 1/4 cup of regular dog food. 3 days of firm stools, go to Level 6
• Level 6 - Mix 1 cup cooked white rice and 1 1/2 cups of regular dog food. 3 days of firm stools, at the next feeding decrease the amount of cooked white rice by 1/4 cup and increase the amount of regular dog food by 1/4 cup.

Continue this regimen until your dog is back to their usual amount of dry dog food and then discontinue the rice. If at any time in this process your dog experiences diarrhea again you must go back to the cooked white rice & hamburger or chicken mixture only.

Note:For the first two feedings on the rice/hamburger or chicken mixture you may want to add regular strength Pepto-Bismol at the childrens dose.

.

Note: If the diarrhea does not slowdown, does not stop after three days, or you see blood in the stool contact your veterinarian immediately!!!

Chapter 3

Greyhounds, because of their low body fat and fast metabolism, are especially sensitive to insecticides and other substances. The substances to watch out for are:

• Flea & Tick Products - "DO NOT USE FLEA COLLARS." Flea collars contain chemicals which go directly into a greyhound's blood stream and can cause serious health problems and possibly death.
  
  Flea & Tick shampoos and sprays that are safe are those with PYRETHRINS as the main ingredient but NEVER FLEA DIP your greyhound. DO NOT use any flea/tick products which contain organophosphates Carbaryl is an example of an organophosphate commonly found in flea powder, some shampoos and sprays. The long acting flea & tick products (e.g. - DEFEND, DURSBAN) may be unsafe for greyhounds as well. Seek the advice of NJ GAP on a particular product if you have any doubt of its safety.
• Lawn Chemicals - May be fatal to greyhounds. Do not allow your greyhound to walk on any chemically treated areas. Lawn services such as Chemlawn, Lawn Doctor, etc. are required to mark treated areas with yellow flags. If you use lawn chemicals please make us aware of this.
• Chocolate - Chocolate contains theobromine, a substance which is toxic to dogs. Chocolate should be kept out of reach at all times.
• Paints - Exposure to oil base paints can cause a variety of reactions in your dog. If you are painting your home it is best to arrange to safely have your greyhound elsewhere. If this is not possible the dog(s) should be put in a safe and well ventilated area of the house away from the fumes.
• Household Chemicals - Many harsh detergents and chemicals are used in connection with house cleaning and home remodeling. For example, if you use the continuos cleaning type of toilet chemicals like Tide-E- Bowl, make sure the toilet seat is kept down.

3.2 Care and Grooming

Greyhounds are very used to being handled at the track making it easy for you to groom your greyhound. NJ GAP recommends you do the following every week:

• Ears - Your greyhound's ears should be cleaned every week. You should use cotton balls and a mild ear cleaning solution as recommended by your veterinarian. Your veterinarian can also show you the proper way to clean your greyhound's ears.
• Nails - Your greyhound will need to have its nails cut every week. This may vary with the amount of exercise your greyhound is getting and how much natural wear their nails get. Your veterinarian or a NJ GAP volunteer can show you how to properly cut your greyhound's nails.
• Brushing - You should also brush your greyhound once a week or more frequently if you desire. Use a hounds glove or a rubber curry comb. You can also use a flea comb. These items really help to pull out the dead undercoat and reduce any shedding.
• Teeth - Greyhounds do not mind having their teeth brushed and we do recommend that you do this every week. There are dog dental care kits. They contain a dog tooth brush and a non foaming dog toothpaste. Human toothpaste foams too much.
• Bathing - Bathing your greyhound depends on how dirty they get and if you have allergies. Please see the section on Insecticides for the proper flea/tick shampoo to purchase.
  
  Note: Many greyhounds become very relaxed when getting bathed and may lean on you and may even fall over, so please make sure you have a firm grip on your dog during bathing.
• Tick Collars - A PREVENTIC collar may be used on your greyhound. This collar repels and kills ticks only. The chemical on this collar is not absorbed into the skin or bloodstream, it only disperses over the coat. You can purchase this collar by mail order or from your veterinarian.Remember NO FLEA COLLARS OR FLEA DIPS!

Greyhounds can reach high places, such as your kitchen counter, with very little effort. Be sure to place breakables or potentially harmful items out of the reach of your greyhound, including your dinner!! Never leave breakable items, food or potentially poisonous items on low tables or counters when your dog is unattended. Greyhounds are also known to be interior decorators. They will move pillows, stuffed animals, and the like, from one place to another. They may even take books off your shelves. Greyhounds also like to rearrange their own beds (we call this nesting). If you don't want your greyhound on your couch or bed, let them know that immediately. Gently tell the dog "no", clip on their leash and remove them from the furniture. Take them to their own resting area.

3.4 Allergies

Most people have some form of allergies. This does not mean you cannot have a greyhound. Simple procedures and patience will enable you to have a great companion. If you are allergic to dogs, you are allergic to their dander. Typically, people are more allergic to heavily undercoated dogs (i.e. Huskies) than greyhounds.  If you have an allergic reaction there are some simple things you can do until you build up a natural immunity (tolerance):

• Bathe - Bathe your greyhound once every 2 weeks.
• Groom - Groom your greyhound twice a week. If possible, have the person in the household with no allergy problems do all the grooming. If possible groom outdoors.
• Sleeping - Initially have your greyhound sleep in another room with a member of the family who is not allergic.
• Allerpet - Use Allerpet-D for dogs as directed.
• Color - Consider a darker colored tight haired greyhound since they seem to be better for people with allergies.
• Timing - Don't get your greyhound when your allergy  sensitivities are at their peak.
• Bedding - Use a thick blanket or quilt as your greyhound's bedding and wash it every week.
• Couching - Don't allow your greyhound up on the furniture.
• Have Patience - The worst time is the first two weeks. Usually after 2 months even the most severe reactions settle down.

All of the above advice is for the initial adjustment phase. Once the allergic reaction settles down you may want to consider relaxing some of the above precautions gradually.

"NJ GAP has had a 98% success rate when the above procedures were followed."

3.51 "What Heat?"

The weather today was absolutely perfect! The sun was shining, temperatures were in the low 80's and humidity was low. Do not let today's beautiful weather fool you, the 'dog days of summer' are upon us. When the temperature and humidity are high, we hear warnings on the radio to minimize the time we stay outdoors, keep cool, check on elderly or sickly neighbors, friends and relatives. These warnings should also alert us to take special precautions with our greyhounds. If it's too hot for you to be outside for long periods of time, it's definitely too hot for them. Take short walks in the early morning or late evening. If you have to walk your dog during the day, stick to short potty walks.

What about other days when there are no heat warnings? You should still be aware of the temperature and humidity, and be alert to any signs of heat distress in your dog. If you live in a house without air-conditioning, and have the windows open with fans running, and your dog is laying around panting, it's too hot to go outside for more than a very short walk.

Some dogs are more sensitive to the sun. Black greyhounds will feel the heat more than those with lighter colored coats. Greyhounds can also get sunburned. They have very short, thin coats, and as we all know, some of them have bald butts!

Many greyhounds enjoy cooling off by walking or laying in a shallow pool of water. One of our greyhounds loves her hard plastic kiddy pool. She takes a walk through it every time she goes out into the yard.

3.52 Heat Stroke

Be aware of the early signs of heat stroke and take quick action. The first signs are excessive panting, weakness, inability to stand, dilated pupils and a blank expression. Immediately get the dog into a cool area, soak towels in cold water, and wrap these around the dog. If possible, put about six inches of cold water in the bath tub, stand the dog in the cold water and pour cold water over it's entire body. If, after approximately 5-10 minutes, you don't see a change for the better,  get the dog to the veterinarian immediately.

Dogs can progress from mild heat stroke to severe quickly. If you see blood spots on the gums and what looks like bruising on the inside of the thighs, get to the veterinarian's immediately! Do not continue and try to treat the dog. Grab a wet towel to wrap the dog in if it's available and get moving!

Have an enjoyable and safe summer. Just be aware of changes you see in your dog. If the heat seems to be bothering him/her, (for example, heavy panting) get them out of the heat and cool them down. Restrict their outdoor activities. If you find yourself in a situation where you think your dog is in danger of heat stroke, take immediate action! Heat stroke can cause brain damage and even death.

If, while you're reading this, you do not know the name, location and phone number of the nearest veterinary emergency facility, now is a good time to gather this information and keep it by your phone. In our house, emergencies never occur during our veterinarian's regular office hours!

3.6 Lure Coursing

Now that it's spring we all want to get out of the house and do things with our dog. Now that it's spring we all want to get out of the house and do things with our dog. One thing that comes to mind is "Lure Coursing". Lure coursing is a sport in which a dog will chase a plastic bag in an open field. The bag is tied to a string that is pulled across the field with the aid of a motor and pulleys. This simulates the conditions that greyhounds were originally bred for. Lure coursing can be fun, but it can also be dangerous if you are not careful.

Getting Ready

The first thing you need to do to prepare for lure coursing is to assess the condition of your dog. Greyhounds, being couch potatoes, need to be fit prior to running. The typical course that your greyhound is expected to run is between 600 - 1,500 yards. This can be quite a demand on a dog that has not had a lot of previous exercise. If you cannot see 3-5 of your greyhound's ribs, he/she is probably overweight and you should consider not running your dog. The other things to remember are:

Make sure your dog knows its name and will come when called
The nails are cut short (to avoid broken toes and bloody thighs)
The Dewclaws are taped with surgical tape

First Timers

The following guidelines are for first time runners:

Notify the Huntmaster that this is your dog's maiden run
Have your dog run alone
Your dog should be run at a moderate pace. Never full tilt!!!
The dog should only run once no matter how great the run was
Never run your dog in competition the first time
You should have your dog at least three months

Remember lures can be very exciting. Expect your dog to be jumping/lurching at the sight of it. Consider muzzling your dog (it saves on leashes being chewed)

Course Layout

It is extremely important to review the course layout and field conditions prior to running. Courses are designed to optimize the runs of various sighthounds. A course with sharp points (like a star) is great for an Afghan Hound but can cause a greyhound to get hurt. The following are things to look for:

No Points - gradual turns
No trees or fences near turns (Greyhounds take wide turns)
No gopher/groundhog holes
Consistent surface (Changing surfaces can cause slipping)

Conditions

The ideal conditions for coursing are 50 to 70 degree days with low humidity. The best time to course your dog is usually in the morning. If the temperature gets above 75 degrees do not course your dog. If it is a humid day, do not course your dog if its above 70 degrees. Also avoid a slick course due to a recent/current rain.

First Aid

Always bring a first aid kit with you when you go coursing. Hopefully you will never use it. The kit should contain surgical tape, gauze, nail cutter, antiseptic and a towel.

The most common injuries are broken nails and heat prostration. Broken nails need to be trimmed quickly to reduce any pain (nail cutters). Heat prostration is treated by wetting the towel and placing it on the dog. The wetter the better. If a lake is nearby go for it. Also, know of a local veterinarian on call - just in case.

After the Run

After your dog's run follow these simple rules:

Walk your dog for 5 minutes as a cool down exercise
Check your dog for any injuries
Don't let your dog gulp down water (moderate and slow)
Place your dog in a comfortable area out of sight of the lure


                Summer - In a crate in the shade
                Winter - In a crate in the sun (unless the dog is showing signs of being  overheated)

Helpful Hints

Hopefully, the above does not scare you away from lure coursing. It can be fun, but if you are not careful it can be dangerous.

3.7 Estate Planning for Pets

Below is a general outline for all pets. Please keep in mind that a NJ GAP dog should go back to the organization for placement.

Those of us who are pet owners will often go to great lengths to comfort and care for these family members during our lifetime. Most of us are also very much aware of the importance of estate planning for our loved ones after we die. Unfortunately, we for get that pets are loved ones too, and often provisions are not made for their care after our death.

Why a will?

In the eyes of the law, in most states, animals are considered personal property and are treated as if they are a piece of jewelry or an article of clothing. If no will exists, the animal goes to the heir of the estate. If no heir exists or if the heir does not want your animal, he/she will go to a humane group, an animal shelter or be euthanized.

Decision

The first decision you must make is to decide on whether your loved one(s) should be adopted into a new home or euthanized. Each situation must be evaluated on its own merits. Determine if your pet is adoptable and can survive a transfer.

Adoption

Once you decide adoption is the best option, find an individual or adoption agency to provide a home for your pet(s). Things to look for in adoption situation are:

1. Will your pet be placed in a home?
2. What adoption/screening procedures are used?
3. Will the animal(s) have a home for life?
4. Will the animal(s) be included in the adopter's estate plan?
5. Will the adoption agency provide references?

What about euthanasia?

Euthanasia should only be considered when it is the humane solution. If your pet would experience great hardship in adapting to a new home euthanasia may be more humane. If the decision is euthanasia, specify a veterinarian and discuss the procedure. Also, get his/her recommendation on a final resting place. Some options are pet cemeteries, cremation, or your pet can be buried with you.

Financial Considerations

In either option there are expenses that are incurred and provisions should be made in the will. Four options are:

1. Direct money to care for the pet for life.
2. Conditional money based upon care for the pet.
3. A non-charitable trust.
4. Establish a conditional trust.

The financial option you select can be controlled by your executor, identified individual, or adoption agency. Which is the best is based upon your situation. Discussions with a lawyer are strongly recommended.

Summary

The Essentials of Estate Planning For Your Pet(s):

1. A will is mandatory.
2. Decide on adoption or euthanasia
3. If adoption, specify an adoption agency or animal care facility.
4. If euthanasia, specify the veterinarian and the final resting place.
5. Provide financial support.

Index

A
Anesthesia 1.2, 2.5
B
Bald Spots 2.5
Barking 2.23, 2.24
Bathing 3.2
Bed 1.1, 2.23, 2.5, 3.4
Bloat 2.5
Brushing 3.2
Bursars 2.5
C
Cats 1.3
Children 2.3
Chocolate 3.1
Crate 1.1, 1.2, 2.2, 2.3, 2.5
D
Diarrhea 2.5
Distemper 2.5
E
Ear Are Missing 2.5
Ears 1.3, 3.2
Elbows 2.5
Estate Planning 3.7
F
First Aid 3.6 Flea 1.1, 3.1
Food 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 2.22, 2.3, 2.5, 3.3
G
Grooming 3.2
H
Heartworm 2.5
Housebreaking 2.2
Household Chemicals 3.1
I
Insecticides 3.1, 3.2
L
Lawn Chemicals 3.1
Lure Coursing 3.6
N
Nails 3.2
P
Paints 3.1
Post Operative 1.2
Praise 2.1, 2.22, 2.4
Privacy 2.3
R
Rabies 2.5
Recall 2.4
Running Loose 1.51
S
Safety Collar 1.1, 1.52, 2.4
Scars 2.5
Shedding 2.5
Signs 2.24
Sitting 2.4
Stairs 2.1
Stool Sample 2.5
T
Tartar 2.5
Teeth 1.3, 3.2
Tick 1.1, 3.1, 3.2
Toxins 3.1
Training 2.2, 2.4
V
Veterinary Care 2.5
Voice commands 2.4
W
Water 1.1, 1.2, 1.4, 2.23, 2.5, 3.5
Well Visit 2.5
Will 3.7
Worms 2.22, 2.25, 2.5